About

ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHY PROCESS

Equipment

I use a full frame Canon EOS 6D Mark II, with a set of L lenses. I would always choose lenses over camera which is why I chose to complete the lens set rather than upgrade to a 5D or mirrorless camera. The combo camera and lenses are invariably attached to a solid carbon tripod as I like low ISO and smaller aperture result in camera shake.

I tend to never take a camera bag, the camera on tripod with the lens of choice. I tend to prefer a 24-70mm zoom over the ultra wide 16-35 as I find it sharper, with results closer to what a human eye would see. For huge open spaces however, I would choose the ultra wide and hunt for foregrounds.

To reduce the dynamic range (i.e. reduce the difference between the darkest and brightest point in a scene, in order for the camera to not over or under expose part of it), I also use 'Neutral Density' graduated filters, placed in front of the lens and adjusted to 'shade' the area to tone down (usually, the sky). Although a lot can be done with post processing, I still feel there is no match to getting it right in the viewfinder, and there are still things post processing cannot do such as Sunstars and Long Exposures. I use Lee filters as they have served me well so far and are also the best value for money and quality out there, in my opinion.

Post processing

My moto is 'if you can see it, you have gone too far'.

Digital censors tend to produce somewhat 'metallic' images which can be quite a good bit away from the 'older' film emulsions, and the 'reality' in general even though things have greatly improved. Consequently it is often needed to tweak levels and adjust saturation to give those images a little 'life'. These days we have full control on the final product, and it is easy to see how many could get carried away with over the top post processing. In my opinion the image should best reflect the recollection of that moment when the shutter was released.

As I often shoot in the sun to get sunstars, it may happen that the image needs some tidying up to remove sun ghosts, exposure might also be adjusted in parts of the scene as I need to bring my ND Grad filters really low when the sun is directly ahead, so as to avoid too many artefacts and to preserve some colors in the sky.

Our digital age has made possible a number of powerful techniques (focus stacking, multiple exposure blending, replacement...) which I do not use for now simply because I don't feel I have a need to use them in my photography at this moment in time. Of course, this could all change if I got started on milky way shots!

Printing

Screens are calibrated to ensure the final result is true to the image displaying on screen.

I handle A4 printing on a great little Canon Photo Printer, using Canon Semi Gloss paper unless specified otherwise. Printing is at 300ppi with a little sharpening to compensate for the inkjet inherent softening due to the physical footprint of the print heads.

Finally, all the larger prints are handled by a professional printer meet landscape afficionado who operates in Gort! The results are always astonishing up to A0. Be aware though that printing larger sizes (usually from A1) can be 'unforgiving' and may not meet the expectation of any sharpness obsessed individual: those sizes require back to front sharpness which may sometimes not be possible due to haze, or choice of aperture. It still isn't bad though! I use Canon L lenses whose optical qualities have long been hailed as amongst the best on the market. Did I say my lenses were micro focus calibrated and adjusted ? :)

Framing

I do not provide framing services. A frame is a very personal choice which must suit not only a photograph, but also the room it will be hanged in, which is why I chose to exclude framing altogether.

SHIPPING and LOCAL PICKUP/DELIVERY

Shipping small prints

I always use cellophane sleeves for A4 prints so they don't get scratched during shipping, and can be safely stored for a while until they get framed.

I also use super rigid cardboard envelopes to ship. Prints sleeves slide in tightly and I have yet to receive any feedback that the prints were damaged in the shipping process!

Shipping in tubes

Prints larger than A4 will generally be sent rolled with great care and padding in a large diameter (76mm) tube.

Local pickup or delivery

I am quite happy to deliver a print in Gort (any order size) or within a 10km range from Gort (orders above 50 Euros), at your convenience. This will save you shipping cost.

TAKING CARE OF YOUR PRINT

On extracting a print from a shipping tube

Heavy paper tends to memorize its shape and it will need some effort (and time) for the paper to flatten once it has been removed from its container. Some advice to avoid disappointment if you chose to unroll the print yourself:

Of course it is much better if you leave this to professional framers who are well used to this process.

On framing

A large print will need some help to not bend out and sag once framed and hung to a wall. When a mount is used, there is that space in which the print can happily 'distort' is not properly boarded.

To avoid such predicament, a larger print will need acid free backing board support (usually not provided in a self-framing frame, you will need to order separately), with acid free double sided tape at the edges, and dotted around its surface on the supporting board. This will ensure the print does not get a chance to give in to gravity over time.

WHERE TO HANG YOUR FRAMES

The paper used is semi gloss or matt which does limit the reflection of any direct light hitting the frame glass or plexi. However, it is recommended to hang those away from direct sunlight simply because a dim light brings out colours and depth.

On small frames

The beauty of small frames (A4 prints) is that they can fit anywhere (Bathroom, Under stairs...) on their own or, even more fun, as a group/montage of frames which can be quite aesthetic on a hall, corridor or living room wall. I really recommend A4 prints, they are affordabe and fun to hang!